Day 3 - a perfect day for a hike

Sunset over Vernazza...

16,400 steps, 7.87 miles, 103 flights (quite a hike!)

We woke up and walked 1.2 miles to the train station with our 45-lb bags on our backs. Did I mention that Sierra is a trooper? No complaints, no requests for help or to slow down. I would think I was being insensitive except she tells me when that's the case. So we trod onward, and I continue to be impressed by what an amazing person you are Sierra. 

Sierra and "monster" merrily riding to the coast on Italia rail. 

We buy our tickets and rush to the train. The ride is nice and easy, with a switch in Pisa and La Spezia...then we arrive in Vernazza at 11:30. 

The town is a ghost town--seemingly no internet and very few places to eat or drink.  What is a vibrant summer destination is virtually empty in February. But for the 3rd straight day we have perfect blue skies, and the crisp morning and 55-degree forecast seem perfect for a hike. 

Our "ocean view" room is pictured second from the bottom...second balcony from left. 

We realized it was going to be tough to find our place without a clear address or any way to contact the owner. She may have told us where to meet her...but I didn't have any internet access since early this morning. Well, as luck would have it, as Sierra and I are standing there we see Manuela about 4 feet away. She's looking at me like I'm probably her renter and vice versa. After a minute or so of awkward stares she asks if we're looking for Manuela and after greetings we hike up to our beautiful room. It was modern-yet-quaint and had a nice balcony with a view of the small harbor, the steep hills covered in farms and vineyards, and the pretty town. 

Many of the ocean side trails are closed (all were closed in 2001 last I was here) and this timing was no different: only Monterossa to Vernazza was open. This is lucky though, since we could hike from the biggest town (I.e. Wifi and food) to our home base. So we hopped the train to Monterossa after a quick hike up to an old abandoned ruin atop Vernazza for a view. 

Not the prettiest shot of Vernazza, but the view from up here was fantastic and hard to experience in its entirety via photo. 

Monterossa had a trail office where we learned about the 2 mile hike (the most difficult due to steep inclines and narrow passages...but perhaps most rewarding due to views of all 5 "terras") and were told it's free this time of year and where to go. We stopped for some bruschetta, some water, and maybe a little ill-advised pre-hike beer on the beach. Monterossa is normally the "touristy" town of the five, but in winter it seems to be the only one with working hotels and an active atmosphere with maybe 50 tourists throughout the town. After about an hour we headed up the hill. 

Looking back on Monterossa before we go through the tunnel. 

We climb up and after about 100 yards on the trail we realize that 2 hours probably assumes that you don't stop every 30 feet for another picture. But that's just insane. The beauty here was diverse and awe-inspiring, and we grew more and more grateful that we were blessed with a sunny winter day. Not only was 55 the perfect temp to stay cool on this vigorous hike, but we probably saw a total of 15 people on the 1.2-mile trek. 

Not even on the trail yet...

Just passing through the hilltop villas of Monterossa 

A little winery atop the mountain

One of 2-3 little hobbit bridges along the way. A creek flowed underneath. 

Stopping for a shot at one of many breathtaking spots along the way!

I snapped the photo at the top of this post, and this one, from this perfect spot we found near the end of the hike.

I snuck a bottle of champagne in my backpack to surprise Sierra, and it worked out pretty perfectly :)

After passing wineries, cliffs, lemon trees, breathtaking views in every direction (yet only a few friendly winter hikers and one bug the whole time)...we finally found a beautiful spot to ourselves. Despite a dearth of other hikers, there seemed to be one couple stopped at each viewpoint. So having this last, BEST, lookout point to ourselves was somewhat magical.  I opened a bottle of champagne and pulled out some plastic flutes smuggled from the USA, and we sat and toasted (and danced a little) and watched the sun go down over this beautiful town. 

It was nearing dark as we hiked down and Sierra kept reminding me that I'd persuaded her to buy the "helicopter insurance" so there was no need to worry about trips and falls. I thought it was pretty funny but nevertheless I gingerly made my way down the steps to town...with the souvenir bottle intact. :)

We had a nice pasta dinner and some local Chianti Classico at one of the 2 restaurants in town, then called it a night after a pretty incredible day!